When I asked my 15-year-old son where he wanted to go on a special rite of passage holiday, I was surprised he chose Norway. But after playing a game on the Xbox called Vigo for years, with beautiful scenery and hauntingly beautiful music, his desire to see this magical place for himself had been cemented many years before. Our original trip, booked for May 2020, was cancelled due to COVID-19, so after GCSEs and then A-Levels knocking out the following three years, we eventually embarked on a nine-day adventure in May 2024.
We flew to Bergen and hired a car. Driving was easy; the scenery was picture-postcard beautiful. We drove all day and picnicked beneath the sun, with stretches of crystal-clear waters and towering mountains.
From Voss to Gudvangen to Nærøydalen to Flåm, then up to Stegastein lookout, which was stunning and well worth the ‘heart-in-your-mouth’ drive up the winding road.
We drove on to the mighty Vøringsfossen. Given more time, we’d have stayed a night here to explore the thunderous waters and sky walkways; 40 minutes was nowhere near enough! Somehow, we squeezed in the Atlantic Road, once dubbed the world’s most beautiful, somewhere between Mad Max and the edge of the world.
We arrived in Odda with 10 minutes to spare before our safety briefing for the overnight hike to Trolltunga with Trolltunga Adventures.
I would recommend the Trolltunga Hotel — we camped, but the food looked delicious and the bar area was stylish and welcoming. You get a free transfer to the bottom of the hike the next day included in your stay, rather than paying £56 for overnight parking, which we ended up doing. You could also make your stay even more magical and sleep in a tree house at 'Woodnest'.
We set off with our guide and were joined by two other guests, making us a team of five. The sun was out, and the initial walk through the cabin fields made for easy walking. The trek got harder; there was a stretch of tough, uphill scramble, but we were led sure-footedly. There were pauses to take photos, stop for a drink, and absorb the beautiful scenery, which is what it's all about! The path led us over snowfields, but we were surprisingly hot; most of us completed it in walking boots, shorts, and T-shirts.
It was time for lunch, and my son dunked his head in the melting snow in the full streams. We filled our water bottles with the cleanest water I’ve ever tasted. Five hours later, we arrived at the Arctic Dome, with snacks of nuts, fruits, and reindeer salami, and a coffee were passed around. We cosily sat, sheltering from the rain on wooden-carved benches and fleece-covered beds. Then we were off for the last hour's hike to Trolltunga itself.
The iconic picture I’d seen many years before on a birthday card, with people jumping together in front of the most awe-inspiring view, was finally realised! My son and I walked out over the sheer drop to the spectacular view down the fjord, arms raised together—a moment to treasure always! A journey not just of the mountains and the trolls, but of a mother and son through the teenage years. Now 19, I was standing with a man, and we both felt the enormity of the journey of a relationship, from child to adult, as well as the momentous hike.
That night we slept in the Arctic Dome with lashing wind and rain, snug in the fleeces and sleeping bags.
We returned to Bergen via the Jondal ferry and dropped off our car. We caught the bus into Bergen and down into the old fishing town.
Check-in was quick and done within 15 minutes, so we left Jekteviken terminal and went to see the outside of the Hurtigruten ship that would be our home for two nights. She was majestic, in a clean black, white, and red livery. We’d never been on a cruise ship, and Hurtigruten markets itself as something between a cruise ship and a working ferry. We couldn't wait for our first ship and our next adventure to begin!
Prior to sailing, we explored the fish market and the restaurant Fjellskål. They have an incredible fresh fish counter; I ate the freshest sushi I've ever had. We sat within the historic and bustling setting, taking in the gorgeous views of the harbour, looking with anticipation towards our ship.
This was it—boarding time and onto Hurtigruten's Polarys, ready to set sail at 8:30 pm. Our cabin was spacious, with one of the most comfortable beds I’d ever slept in! There were 215 cabins, two hot tubs, a sun lounge deck, two restaurants, and the Explorer Bar perched above the bridge. I had a delicious martini, and my son had a beer, much to his disappointment; the rules on alcohol are much stricter in Norway, and you have to be 20 to drink spirits. We bought the cabin and dinner package, no drinks. As Hurtigruten is a Norwegian company, expect drink prices onboard to be at the same level as in Norway, which, to a Brit, is very expensive!
The first night's food was a buffet, with plenty of salads, cured fish, vegetables, and a delicious slow-cooked beef with rich gravy and creamy mash. We met a lovely American couple who chatted warmly with us over food. It never felt busy, and people were very friendly but kept to themselves. After dinner, we went on deck to watch the coastline slowly slip past as the sun started to set.
I stood on the bow to watch the magnificent sunset. The changing crimson and vermilion skies faded to deep purples, reflected in the flat, lapping water. It was breathtaking. Suddenly, we noticed the fins of a pod of porpoises rolling along beside us. It was that moment when I could see how people fall in love with cruises! It was quiet; there was nature and beauty all around us.
We were making our way to our next destination in comfort and with someone else in charge! After driving and directing for the last five days, it was the first time I’d stopped thinking of the next thing and could live in the moment! I had the best night's sleep that night, vaguely conscious of the hum of the engine and secure in the knowledge that we were gliding up the coast to our next destination.
We woke up early and strolled into breakfast at Torget, the main dining area. There was so much on offer: a wide array of cooked breakfast items, continental options, pastries, fruit, yoghurts, and more Norwegian cured fish and cheeses. This was on top of our package and relatively expensive. It was worth it for me, as a foodie, but not for my son, who managed only a coffee and a croissant.
Armed with a strong coffee, we stepped out on deck to watch the mesmerising cliff faces of the coastal islands looming out of the sea and early morning mist. The air was fresh, crisp, but not cold. We went back into the cabin and lay on the bed, relaxing. We had a restricted view cabin with the lifeboats outside, but we could still see the misty, majestic cliffs and islands rising out of the water, some 100m away from us.
Our first port of call was Ålesund around 9:30 am. Disembarking was easy, and we wandered around the picturesque town, had a drink in a pretty square, and then caught the bus to the aquarium. Fabulous! We were in time for all the feeding sessions: otters, penguins, seals, and the main tank with a diver feeding the vast array of native fish. The aquarium had a focus on sustainability and eco-awareness. The displays and tanks were well-maintained and informative, and the pools outside linked to the seawater beyond the low walls, so you felt like the aquatic life was almost free to roam in the wild.
On our return to the boat several hours later, the sun was out, and I hopped into the hot tub for two hours on my own in the glorious sunshine. I had a wonderful time relaxing and absorbing the beautiful views.
The ship was quiet; we were the youngest by some margin. There was a sense of peacefulness and freedom. I always thought I’d feel cooped up on a cruise, but it always felt like there was plenty of space, and no one was in each other’s pockets. Travelling with my teenage son, I felt I could wander off and do something, while he could go back to the room. There was a sauna on the bottom deck, but you had to ask in advance for it to be heated.
The second evening we set sail around 7:00 pm, slipping into the velvet sea, again heading out west, first into the setting sun. This was equally as breathtaking as the day before, but different again. More pinks and purples, fewer dramatic clouds, but stunning and beautiful colours. I had a carpaccio of white fish followed by sea bass; delicious and quite light. We spent the evening watching the sunset and then chilled in the Explorer Bar before heading to bed. Again, a wonderful night's sleep, and awoken all too soon, as we had to check out at 8:00 am. Bags packed and onto the deck to disembark at 8:30 am in Trondheim.
I was sorry to see the Hurtigruten go and didn't want to step off Polarys. We had a wonderful time, highlighted by sunsets, dreamy, sink-into beds, the beautiful scenery, and the warmth of the hot tubs.
We called an Uber and headed into town, waving our first cruise experience behind us. The rest of the trip was wonderful and relaxing. We headed to Trollstigen and stayed in a beautiful camping lodge, cooking either in the small but perfectly equipped kitchen or outside on an open fire with a grill that the campsite provided. While there, we kayaked and swam in a beautiful fjord before slowly winding our way back to Bergen via Stavanger, staying with friends and family.
A truly memorable and bonding trip, full of adventure, food, fresh air, and relaxation